Most travellers only change ships at Halcyon. Stay two days instead: walk the Promenade, tour the violet-lit gardens and the shipyards, and end at the Long Window at dusk.
Dorm beds from 30 marks, noodles for 6 and the best launch view in the Reach for nothing: a former hostel keeper's guide to doing Port Kestrel cheaply.
Halcyon's 300-metre observation deck has reopened after its refit. What has changed, what you will see through the new glass, how to behave on the deck and how to book a dawn session.
