Most travellers only change ships at Halcyon. Stay two days instead: walk the Promenade, tour the violet-lit gardens and the shipyards, and end at the Long Window at dusk.
Halcyon's 300-metre observation deck has reopened after its refit. What has changed, what you will see through the new glass, how to behave on the deck and how to book a dawn session.
The six-hour shuttle from Port Kestrel to Halcyon is routine, but your first one won't feel it. A former launch-pad hostel keeper on ears, stomachs, water, sleep and that first view.
